Looking for New HOTAS advice

Unfortunately, they are still the best option until you hit much more expensive VKB or Virpil stuff, and no one except Logitech or CH seem to have throttles with mini-sticks under the thumb.
I use the thumb stick on my throttle a lot for laterals. As written in my post just above yours it also requires no dead-zone and is therefore fast.
Edit: The dead-zone for the thumb sticks is built into the hardware (probably configured or calibrated), therefore there is no need to add one, but in DIView you can see that the raw data does not change around the center.

However for the main axes roll, pitch and yaw I use dead-zones. Do you as well?

Could you maybe have a look at this post and comment, the dead-zone point? :
Still, I think there are two things FDev could do to help us HOTAS users:
 
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I ordered mine x 56 on amazon when it was temp unavailable, a week later i got a message it will be arriving 17-20th July, yesterday morning I got an email that it's dispatched and will be with me on 10th... have a look at amazon
 
I ordered mine x 56 on amazon when it was temp unavailable, a week later i got a message it will be arriving 17-20th July, yesterday morning I got an email that it's dispatched and will be with me on 10th... have a look at amazon
Make sure it is the grey one
 
It is, after reading all the comments I double and triiple checked before ordering. I was quite surrprised as wrll that when first ordered it was £219, but then it was discounted to 195 so get in thats half of amazon prime paid for this year 🤘
 
I use the thumb stick on my throttle a lot for laterals. As written in my post just above yours it also requires no dead-zone and is therefore fast.

However for the main axes roll, pitch and yaw I use dead-zones. Do you as well?

Could you maybe have a look at this post and comment, the dead-zone point? :
My CH setup has the opposite issue as your X56. The mini-stick on most of my Pro Throttle samples require a considerable dead zone to be usable, but my Fighterstick requires none at all, besides the very slight default deadzone applied by the software in mapped mode, and would even need that if it wasn't starting to wear out.

I do agree that deadzone makes a significant difference and should be as low as possible. Ideally, none is necessary or used and the stick always centers to exactly the same point when not actively held at a deflection.

As for relative mouse and deadzones...it doesn't completely eliminate it. Relative mouse will always recenter flawlessly once movement stops, but if a deadzone is applied, a certain minimum movement must be reached before input registers again.
 
I do agree that deadzone makes a significant difference and should be as low as possible. Ideally, none is necessary or used and the stick always centers to exactly the same point when not actively held at a deflection.
Thank you for the reply.

I'd like to have an alternate setting, maybe activating whenever hard points are deployed and the ship is in combat mode (not in analysis mode for mining etc.), to eliminate dead-zones where not needed.
 
For you guys who use the sticks without the yaw axis, what do you use for steering left and right and how effective is it in comparison?. Reason I ask is that it is practically impossible to buy anything other than the CH stuff at present but the fighterstick doesn't have a yaw axis and when my old sticks yaw went kaput I tried using the Z axis paddles but I felt like a drunken sailor coming through the letterbox every time.
 
I tried the rudder pedals but I need to build a frame to support them and keep them steady as currently they are all over the place when I get into intensive fight and it annoys the hell out of me.
 
I recommend the Thrustmaster T16000m Dual Joysticks. I had the X52 Pro, which was nice and performed very well but the T16000m Dual setup is much more intuitive for Space Flight imo, particularly Elite Dangerous.
 
I love my x56. It's perfect. Throttle is lush has 2 hats and poopooloads of buttons.
The joystick is a tad too long so l had the topmost hat for secondary tasks like mode switching etc.
The joystick has 3 hats.
5 hats in all.
No other hotas in this price range is as good.
So I'm awaiting contact with the nice chap above to see about acquiring spares.
Meantime I've bought a new (old secondhand) joystick from the states but won't be here till late July. So in the meantime meantime, I bought some crap new one with 2 hats a pinky switch etc.
 
For you guys who use the sticks without the yaw axis, what do you use for steering left and right and how effective is it in comparison?. Reason I ask is that it is practically impossible to buy anything other than the CH stuff at present but the fighterstick doesn't have a yaw axis and when my old sticks yaw went kaput I tried using the Z axis paddles but I felt like a drunken sailor coming through the letterbox every time.
I use the stick's pinky button as a Press-To-Hold of the Yaw-to-Roll keybind. So when I squeeze that button, deflection of the x-axis results in yaw rather than roll. (For large steps of yaw I use the forward and back buttons of the Fighterstick's thumb HAT for right and left yaw digital input - they don't get much use.)

fighterstick S.jpg

(I have pedals but using them in the game messed with my flight sim muscle memory so stopped using them.)
 
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Having yaw twist action is to me almost instinctual. Played flightys 40 plus years always had one such stick that had it.
Can't think of another way being comfortable
 
So an update, x56 arrived yesterday and ow boy ow boy did I have fun so far... not. Don't get me wrong, the amount of precision is on another level compared to t1600m, but getting used to new controls again is a freaking nightmare. Main downside so far is the lack of small joystick I had on Thrustmaster's throttle which I had mapped for vertical and lateral thrusts, and also RZ axis that I used for forward and reverse thrusts. Their positioning was absolutely perfect, and since they were right next to each other, it was a walk in the park to utilise ALL dimensions. Now, I have to over reach to the small joy on throttle, I also have no axis for on the same hand to have forward and reverse thrusts which I mapped on the stick, and it sucks a massive one. Probably a case of getting used to it BUT so far in ergonomics I give +1 to T1600.

The stick is not AS big as everybody state, which is a positive surprise since my hands are rather normalish size, I was pleased to realise that I have no trouble reaching all the hats and buttons and triggers without hustle.

I might have to play with lat, hor, for and rev thrusts to achieve better results, or I will get on with building the frame for rudder pedals and use those for forward and reverse instead.

I got the dedicated externally powered usb hub as somebody suggested and after 3-4 hours of playing last night I didn't notice any ghost inputs so far so kudos to that commander for pointing that out. Now just waiting for virpil
o7
 
So an update, x56 arrived yesterday and ow boy ow boy did I have fun so far... not. Don't get me wrong, the amount of precision is on another level compared to t1600m, but getting used to new controls again is a freaking nightmare. Main downside so far is the lack of small joystick I had on Thrustmaster's throttle which I had mapped for vertical and lateral thrusts, and also RZ axis that I used for forward and reverse thrusts. Their positioning was absolutely perfect, and since they were right next to each other, it was a walk in the park to utilise ALL dimensions. Now, I have to over reach to the small joy on throttle, I also have no axis for on the same hand to have forward and reverse thrusts which I mapped on the stick, and it sucks a massive one. Probably a case of getting used to it BUT so far in ergonomics I give +1 to T1600.

The stick is not AS big as everybody state, which is a positive surprise since my hands are rather normalish size, I was pleased to realise that I have no trouble reaching all the hats and buttons and triggers without hustle.

I might have to play with lat, hor, for and rev thrusts to achieve better results, or I will get on with building the frame for rudder pedals and use those for forward and reverse instead.

I got the dedicated externally powered usb hub as somebody suggested and after 3-4 hours of playing last night I didn't notice any ghost inputs so far so kudos to that commander for pointing that out. Now just waiting for virpil
o7
I find putting anything thrust related on throttle frees my joystick hand for combat related stuff. Use the 2 hats on throttle for laterals :)
 
Another thing - the weight.... bases on both parts are big BUT no weight what so ever, thankfully I made my desk myself so I will be modifying it so that controls are more level with the surface and stable. I don't feel like spending more money on metal plates is reasonable for me, but both need attaching to the desk for sure.
o7
 
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